Live Your Best Lives
Looking back on the past year, whether it was a stumbling year or a willful year, perhaps it was such an opportunity that made my consistent view of things subtly change, and it seemed that I was braver to make decisions, whether it was pausing or moving on.
If you can't step out of the country, then find a place where there are fewer people to be in a daze.
So a quiet border town comes into view, it is Tengchong , Yunnan, an incognito life, which may be possible here.
In the name of Tengchong, I revisited Dali and Kunming by the way, and there were surprises and minefields along the way, but fortunately everything went smoothly. Suddenly I felt that what we were chasing on our journey was just an ordinary and real life. There is a little happiness in the busyness, and it is already a lucky thing to be able to see the moving scenery the moment you look up.
We may not always get what we want, but this is life.
Travel is not a part of thousands of lives.
Mention Tengchong , although it has volcanic geothermal, But the most worth exploring should be Heshun Ancient Town. In Heshun Ancient Town, there is such a sign that reads:
" There is a taste called Heshun . Warm as jade, good as water. In the ancient building complex surrounded by the volcanic Atami, the bells of merchants and horse gangs echoed, the fragrance of farming and reading people's books wafted, spreading the ideas of popular philosophy, and leaving a fierce lament! It may be a pity not to experience the taste of harmony once in a lifetime.
Heshun Ancient Town is a quiet ancient city that few people will go to, although "Northern Ireland" has made it famous, because of the inconvenience of transportation, it is still a small town in the deep boudoir, the stone road is up the mountain, the blue tile roof is scattered, choose a courtyard homestay to stay for three days, you will find the beauty of this mountain city.
Most of the time in the ancient town belongs to nature, quiet and ordinary. Residents living in the ancient town gather in the compound to chat in their spare time, look at the scenery, and live a homely life.
Heshun now has a population of about 6,000 people, and there are more than 10,000 Heshun people living overseas, from which the name "Overseas Chinese Hometown" comes from. The emblem-style buildings, archways and ancestral halls, and cultural origins that remain everywhere in the ancient town are the most precious existences here.
A vast rice field next to the ancient town nourishes generations of residents here, and when you go to the other side of the rice field, you can see the entire small town rising from the mountain more clearly. Staggered, growing upwards.
Tricycles that purchase ingredients in the early morning roar by, and the breakfast shop where the charcoal fire crackles and cooks hot bait shreds, suitable for hiding from the sun in the afternoon, Children who come out of school at school hours... They are all ordinary scenes that are constantly staged every day.
Snuggled up to a whole rice field in Heshun Ancient Town, it is really good to take pictures, the endless golden rice fields have grown to a height of one meter in the harvest season, Let the fresh city people take pictures here for a long time and don't want to leave...
More than 400 years ago, the villagers here began to "go to the barbarians". Since Heshun is only 70 kilometers away from Myanmar, there are the most people who go there to do jade business, many of whom have become rich and wealthy merchants, and they build houses in Heshun after returning to their hometowns, and also fund the construction of ancestral halls, so there are eight ancestral halls in the township, with different styles.
Walking along the small river around the city, you will find several laundry kiosks, most of the men in the village "went to the barbarians" to run for the family, and the women stayed in their hometowns to wash and cook, take care of their families, and raised funds to build laundry kiosks in order to keep them from the wind and sun by the river. As time went by, there were large and small pavilions along the way.
If you want to complete the feeling and smoothness , it will take at least three days, not to rush to check in at each architectural attraction, but to step on every stone road unhurriedly, the smoke in the morning, the tranquility in the afternoon, the twilight of the setting sun, and the starry sky in the middle of the night...... Especially after leaving Heshun Ancient Town, you will miss the little days here.
Heshun Ancient Town Guide
1. The original price of tickets for Heshun Ancient Town was 55 yuan, but now it is 27.5 yuan in half price, including historical architectural attractions in the ancient town.
2. There are many choices of homestays in the ancient town, in fact, you can stay in two houses to experience different experiences when you have enough time, and the homestays generally include pick-up and drop-off, which can be picked up from the airport or from the city.
3. When it comes to B&B package pick-up, except for some brand hotels with their own drivers, local B&Bs generally cooperate with the fleet, and the drivers are not their own. During the pick-up and drop-off, the driver will generally ask if you need to charter a car to visit nearby attractions, the market price is 300 a day, if you want to go to 2-3 nearby places and do not have a self-driving, chartered car is still more cost-effective, this depends on the individual, the driver will not force you.
4. The night in Heshun Ancient Town is particularly quiet, there is almost no nightlife, there are several bars in the ancient town, but they may not be open every day, the restaurant usually closes at 8-9 o'clock, and there are only one or two barbecue stalls left later, there are no street lights at night, it is recommended not to run too far at night.
5. The ancient town is full of stone roads, it is recommended to wear sneakers, if the luggage is relatively large, then it is recommended not to book too deep a homestay, otherwise it is an extraordinary test of foot strength.
6. Regarding the hot springs, we went to the Bailian Hot Spring Hotel next to the ancient town, because the entire Tengchong scenic spot is developed by Bailian, the environment of Bailian Hot Spring is also the best, the hot springs here in Tengchong have few private baths, basically you have to wear swimsuits to soak in different large pools, and the hot spring water has no taste. If you want to soak in a hot spring with a sulfur smell, it is recommended to go to the hot sea view area.
TheBeihai wetland belongs to the volcanic dammed lake ecosystem, where aquatic plants are densely intertwined in the water, dying and reborn in the sufficiently moist soil, until a meadow floats on the water, and the volcanic dammed lake wetland for ten thousand years has become a classic postcard of Tengchong .
Beihai Wetland Scenic Area is an ecological reserve surrounded by mountains, the lake level is as quiet as a mirror, aquatic plants grow wantonly, the scenic spot is not large, and it can be completed in about two hours. The wetland is rich in flora and fauna, with wildflowers blooming in spring and summer, migratory birds coming here to spend the winter in autumn and winter, walking back and forth along the plank road, or taking a cruise ship to the end and walking back is a good choice.
The tickets are purchased together with the chartered car master, and 80 yuan includes the experience of cruise and grass rowing, which is cheaper than buying tickets directly.
For people who have lived in the city for a long time, this kind of green landscape is exactly what urbanites look up to infinitely.
The whole wetland scenic spot is long, and there is about 3 kilometers back and forth, the cruise ship can indeed save some physical strength, and you will see some unnamed birds along the way. The one below should be a white heron, beautiful alone with a long neck.
"Abundant water and grass" should be the most appropriate adjective for this place, when the boat slowly rows the calm lake, The aquatic plants floating in the water are clearly visible, and flocks of wild ducks swim past the grass, which is such a beautiful scene.
These two blue and charming purple water chickens are relatively rare water birds in China.
When the cruise ship sailed to the last dock, a few small grass huts under the lush mountains were like the lakes and mountains of Switzerland . This tranquility is loved.
The grass raft experience area of Beihai Wetland can try the wonderful experience of floating on the water, a thick meadow instead of a bamboo raft, can stand three or four people, use bamboo supports to control the direction, Floating carpet on the lake.
Beihai Wetland Scenic Area Guide
1. Opening hours: 8:30-19:00
2. Four seasons characteristics:
spring — purple irises;
Summer - light romanette reveals brightness and charm;
Autumn — Linglian is fragrant, fish and shrimp are playing, and light boats and bamboo rafts are swinging among them;
winter — flocks of wild ducks, migratory birds fly and frolic in the water;
3. Experience items: cruise ship, bamboo raft, grass raft, ancient cover fish
4. Play time: 2-3 hours
5. Ticket price: 55 yuan; Tickets + cruise 80 yuan; tickets + bamboo raft 100 yuan; Tickets + straw rows 120 yuan
Coming out of the Beihai Wetland, then going to Atami, the drive takes about half an hour, and the chartered driver will generally recommend swimming together.
Atami is not a sea, but a geothermal hot spring area, and from the moment you get off the bus, you will be greeted by a strong smell of sulfur. Passing through a row of small shops at the entrance of the scenic spot, along the road is chasing the aunt who asked you to buy eggs, the eggs are tied into a bunch with straw, 10 yuan a string, as if not buying a string to scald in a big pot, there is always a lack of a sense of ceremony, so I started the journey of a bunch of eggs.
A stream that is warm in all seasons runs through the valley, forming large and small springs and pools, and takes a shuttle bus from the ticket office and goes deep into the valley. I only saw wisps of white smoke rising from the mountains, which was a bit fairy.
Approaching the direction of the smoke, the temperature of the air gradually rose, and there were beads of sweat on the forehead, the smell of sulfur was strong and salty, the exposed rocks were all white calcifications, and from time to time there were some small holes in the ground for ventilation, and columns of smoke floated up from the holes.
It's amazing to say, there are steaming springs in this valley, and there are also trickling cold streams and waterfalls.
Continue your trek up through Sennin-tei, passing through the hot spring area, passing several hot spring pools, and climbing dozens of steps to reach Atami's iconic attraction, the "Big Boiling Pot".
There are three water spray holes at the bottom of the boiling pot, and what is sprayed out is 96 degrees of hot water, like a boiled cauldron of water, even the ground is hot here, and if you want to sit on the steps to rest for a while, you will be repelled by the temperature on the ground.
There are signs everywhere in the scenic spot that say "it is forbidden to boil eggs in the spring", after the Long March, my string of eggs, finally found a home in the boiled egg experience area next to the big boiling pot, said that it was boiled, in fact, it should be steamed at high temperature, throw the egg skewers into the cage for about 10 minutes, the eggs are fully cooked, and the dream of beautiful hot spring eggs has long been shattered.
I still want to leave a souvenir of this journey of eggs.
As one of the three major geothermal areas in China, the thermal sea view area is the place with the highest concentration of geothermal heat in Tengchong, and this magical landscape is still worth a walk. But whether to soak in hot springs here or not depends on the person.
Hot sea view area strategy
1. The original price of the ticket is 60 yuan, half price during the year, if you have no physical strength, it is recommended to buy a combination of scenic spot tickets + battery tickets, and it is at least 1.5 kilometers to walk from the ticket office to the essence of the scenic spot, and the battery car mainly saves this distance.
2. It takes about 1.5 kilometers to climb from Lion's Head Waterfall to Atami Big Boiling Pot, and it takes more than half an hour to climb while walking.
3. Atami can swim with the volcano, or it can be arranged with the Beihai wetland, a day is completely enough, it is recommended to eat a Chaowei copper gourd beef in the city at night!
4. There is a place to experience foot soaking next to the Atami boiling pot, if you want to go to the hot spring, it is recommended to buy tickets for the scenic spot + hot spring + battery car with the homestay, and also bring a swimsuit (you can also buy it in the hot spring, but the style is emmm)
[Aunt Cun thin bean powder]
Breakfast for locals usually starts with a bowl of hot thin bean flour, "make it on the same day and eat it on the same day", after the morning is gone, Aunt Cun is no exception, when we came, it was already afternoon, so we ordered a large thin slice of soybean flour as a snack. Aunt Cun called us to eat thin bean flour for breakfast the next day, and we nodded frequently.
The large thin slices are pork slices cut as thinly as cicada wings, light and refreshing, seasoned with chili powder, and inhaled with jelly-like bean flour, which is the taste of wanting to eat one bite after another.
【Niu Niujia Copper Scoop Beef】
In Heshun Ancient Town, a beef hot pot recommended by the homestay lady, a large copper ladle is a thickly cooked beef bone soup, which is full of beef offal, beef, cowhide, I don't remember how many pounds I ordered, I only remember that the total energy in the copper ladle is constantly sandwiched out of beef, beef and beef offal are particularly flavorful, it is not like Chaoshan beef hot pot that melts in the mouth, it is a little tough in comparison, but full of flavor.
[Lin Li Family Restaurant]
An ordinary family restaurant, with an open living room and a two-story building, the restaurant set up a table in its own yard, which is a place where locals are accustomed to eating. The home-cooked menu is handwritten on the small blackboard, the freezer on the side is placed with more than a dozen kinds of fungi that cannot be named, the simple proprietress is busy in the kitchen, greeting the boss to order for us, the two of them ordered four dishes, and they were very satisfied.
I have forgotten what the mushrooms are in season, the entrance is fresh and soft, and the mushroom aroma is burst out by stir-frying over high heat.
Stir-fried Tengchong horn melon, small horn melon is a unique vegetable in Tengchong, shaped like chili but not spicy, and the taste is fragrant and delicious.
In restaurants in Tengchong, you can see the specialty of the big rescue almost everywhere, which is actually fried bait pieces (fried noodles), which was fled by the emperor during the Ming Dynasty A family in Tengchong , after eating fried bait blocks, felt that they launched this famous rescue.
I always have to give it a try, because of the addition of tomatoes, eggs and pickles, bacon, sour, sweet, salty, spicy, quite fresh, but the bait is also very full, It can almost be a staple food.
【Chaowei Copper Scoop Beef Restaurant】
After eating a meal of copper gourd beef in the ancient town, I never forgot it, and was recommended by a friend to go to a more authentic local copper gourd beef restaurant, sure enough, Chaowei's beef soup is richer, and the beef is also larger, if you can only eat one, then I unconditionally recommend Chaowei!
A large plate of seasonings will be served at each table.
The perfect fusion of chili oil and beef broth, gurgling on the charcoal stove, and the pleasure of eating meat in cool weather makes people feel happy.
[Barbecue stall in Heshun Ancient Town]
The barbecue stall set up in the ancient town after night always gathers people from all over the world, and the food is not amazing deliciousness, but the rare feeling of friends.
TheB&B sister told us that barbecue must be marinated, because that is the characteristic of Yunnan-style barbecue, and the very flavorful marinated chicken wings, chicken feet, grilled fish, and wrapped tofu are must-orders.
The umami of the wrapped tofu is tempting, and the spiciness is also particularly challenging to Cantonese people, but despite this, they still drink beer while "hissing".
[Sister Hua's private dish]
Sister Hua's private dishes that need to be booked one day in advance are Internet celebrity stores in Tengchong Ancient Town, only charged at 158 yuan/person per person, the dishes are provided according to the seasonal ingredients, there are about 10 dishes, the dishes are exquisite and delicious, the environment is also very good, Sister Hua's store has a lot of home-brewed wine, you can taste it if you are interested, and many people buy it back in a pot.
Sister Hua is an authentic and shun person, the restaurant is in her own nearly 300-year-old house, a typical courtyard structure, the entrance is full of wine jars, and the stone slabs and wooden furniture in the old house are full of age.
In a meal eaten by Sister Hua, private dishes were served one after another, from fruits and snacks before the meal, to big fish and meat, to desserts after the meal, when you finished a dish, the next dish would be served in time, which was also reminiscent.
The quiet Tengchong has a green tea garden deep in the mountains, due to the inconvenience of transportation, most of them are travelers who come by car, and the experience is very comfortable! The owner of the tea garden built a thatched house and campsite here, and it was the most comfortable to taste a piece of food and a cup of hot tea in the quiet sea of tea.
Walking all the way from the small village road to the tea plantation, the undulating mountains are already very eye-catching, and turning to the end to see the thatched wooden houses, for a moment it feels like being in Japan In the countryside, the thatched house goes up, and there is a glass restaurant hidden in the forest.
The offset for two people in the restaurant in the tea garden is 200 yuan, and 68 yuan for one person with more than three people. There are about eight or nine dishes, the hump beef pot is so delicious, the beef flavor is very full, the dishes are large, and you will be satisfied with one bite.
The hump beef pot has a rich soup and the beef is stewed until it is tender and delicious.
You can drink freshly brewed tea for free in the tea tasting area after the meal, and if you need to experience the whole process of roasting tea (including fire, grinding, and boiling tea), you need to pay separately. This depends on the time and personal choice, if you have enough time, you might as well experience the ancient way of making tea.
The large tea garden outside the thatched house extends into the distance, when the weather is sunny, it is glowing greenery, and when it is rainy, it has a unique artistic conception, walk into the tea garden path and feel it slowly. It is also very nice to take pictures.
Tengchong Dadi Tea Sea Camping Base
Transportation: Self-driving, chartered car, taxi time
: 9 :30-21:00 (You can eat regardless of time when you go, it is recommended to call in advance to inquire)
InTengchong , we stayed in a boutique homestay that has been planted for a long time, located on an old street extending from Heshun Ancient Town to the foot of the mountain, with an indisputable attitude, just like the appearance of the longing life!
This is a B&B by Harvard architects, with a bright white zigzag entrance cut into the traditional tiled roof. The slope extends up into a green landscape surrounded by forests. The whole is like a white hill growing upwards, full of design and extremely eye-catching.
The rooms are like living in a landscape painting, each room has a poetic name, the design is different, but there are large floor-to-ceiling windows looking out at the fields not far away . Heshun Ancient Town, the intelligent electrical appliances in the room, many details are very intimate.
The B&B also arranges an exclusive butler to pick up and drop off at check-in and departure, and afternoon tea can be enjoyed in the public area full of spatial design, or in the landscape location on the rooftop. Two bowls of peach gum snow fungus were also delivered in the evening, and breakfast could also be delivered to the room.
The hotel lobby is also a café, you can enjoy afternoon tea without staying, admire the master-level design, like a tree trunk pillars staggered to support, The sun shines through the gaps, and the pure white picture is very gentle.
The light and shadow every morning and afternoon are mesmerizing, and the staggered design just gives the space for the sun to be projected at will, and the light and shadow are really beautiful! Watching the sunset from the sky at sunset at the foot of the mountain is even more charming, it is truly a place to relax and squander time.
Walking up the white stairs to the third floor of the B&B, sitting on the roof tiles and looking at the field mountain castle in the distance, this moment is the most comfortable time.
There are several photo spots in the B&B, and you can take a large photo
(1) The "roof" road extending at the door (backlit in the morning, suitable for afternoon photography).
(2) The outdoor white staircase leading to the third floor (special forest style)
(3) The public space on the third floor (you can sit on the roof and remove the tiles from the upper room)
(4) In the morning, in the corridor of the room area, the light and shadow are also very beautiful
[B&B Name] Anzhiruo Hotel Mountain Panorama Hot Spring
Hotel [B&B Address] Heshun No. 41, Zhenshui Dui Shang Ershe
[Transportation] It is about half an hour's drive from the airport, and the housekeeper can pick up and drop off at the airport or in the city, and walk to the center of the ancient town for about 20 minutes
On the way from Tengchong to Dali , I stayed in Baoshan for one night, because of my childish obsession with going to the coffee estate. The reason why it is called naïve is that it was not the coffee season at that time, and under the guise of "all come", I still wanted to take a look, even if the transportation was not very convenient, and I even spent a lot of money to take a taxi back to the city that night.
Baoshan is a niche city, the coffee industry is the pillar of more than half of the economy here, and Lujiangba Xinzhai Village, more than an hour away from the city center, is known as " China's first coffee village" because of its vast coffee planting area. Xinzhai Village in Lujiangba has many coffee estates, coffee experience halls, mountains with large coffee trees for growers, and coffee processing stations in the mountains... For coffee lovers, exploring the source is the most exciting thing.
One of the most unmissable is the Xinzhai Coffee Estate, a Beijing architect Hua Li used 760,000 bricks to create a space integrating mountains, water, art and humanities, it is not an exaggeration to say that it is a coffee museum, and Xinzhai Coffee Manor was even selected as one of the top ten works of the year in ArchDaily's " China Architecture Awards 2020". Of course, this time it was also for it.
I originally wanted to go to Xinzhai Coffee Manor and then visit other nearby coffee estates, but I didn't do enough homework, and I found that it was too late.
It needs to be reminded here that Xinzhai Coffee Manor is not in Xinzhai Village, but in Bawan, and most of the other scattered coffee estates are in Xinzhai Village, which are two different hills, about half an hour's drive apart.
In fact, as long as there is enough time and a car, there is no problem in running two hills a day, but unfortunately it was already afternoon when we went, and we could only get up and go down the mountain to return to the city after visiting Xinzhai Coffee Manor, leaving a regret.
The former site of Xinzhai Coffee Manor was once a yard that had been abandoned for many years and was the office of the former township government. Under the bold vision of the architect, it has been transformed into a retro and stylish coffee estate. The estate consists of three parts: a cinema built in the 80s of the last century, a two-story café made of red bricks, and a three-storey main building with storage and processing as its main functions.
On a dappled afternoon, you can walk around the coffee estate, with tall arched corridors, open views, and spaces with a sense of design, so you can shoot a blockbuster at any time.
There is also a small coffee museum hidden in the manor, which displays hundreds of coffee-related objects in Lujiangba, from coffee varieties to processing equipment, from watching and learning to getting started in person, understanding the whole process of how a coffee bean transforms into a cup of mellowness, and tracing back the history of folk coffee in Lujiangba for decades of coffee cultivation.
Take a look at the building in the estate and have a cup of coffee, although the journey is a bit far, it seems worth it.
A 250-year-old banyan tree is also the "treasure of the town courtyard" here.
Vintage long windows adorn the gray brick walls, which are the facades of an abandoned cinema.
From afternoon to evening, the light has gradually dissipated, and the nostalgia of the whole building has become stronger.
The road from the city to the estate is lined with rolling mountains in the distance.
A little bit about visiting Xinzhai Coffee Manor
(1) By car! Be sure to drive, because public transportation is too inconvenient (don't ask me how I know)
(2) Xinzhai Coffee Manor is not big, about an hour can be finished shopping, and there is no other place to go in the old village nearby, if you want to visit a few more coffee estates, it is recommended to go early, after seeing Xinzhai Coffee Manor, you can drive to Xinzhai Village (about half an hour's drive), there are more coffee estates in Xinzhai Village, and there are also good landscapes and good coffee to taste, Here are a few coffee estates that I originally wanted to visit: Bryan Coffee Experience Center, Chiteng Cultural Coffee Experience Hall, and Beaton Coffee Estate.
(3) The road up the mountain by car is more difficult to walk, there are many curves, it is recommended to have an old driver to drive.
(4) If you have enough time, you can go to Xinzhai Village in the morning, Xinzhai Coffee Manor in the afternoon, and stay in the B&B in the manor for one night in the evening, the experience will be better.
first time I came to Dali was when I was a student, compared with the bustling ancient city of Lijiang, the ancient city of Dali is like a clear stream, wide stone streets, lazy afternoons, slow-paced lifestyle... Let me always maintain that longing for Dali .
Afterseven or eight years, it seems that it has become a little unfamiliar, restaurants and shops have become dense, vehicles and motorcycles are full of roads, and markets and art spaces are dazzling. Perhaps because of the holidays, the crowds of people in the ancient city are also continuous, especially the noise and brightly lit shop signs after nightfall, which makes people a little enthusiastic.
The ancient city of Dali finally conformed to the trend of commercialization, life in the ancient city is no different from the city, milk tea bars are lined up on the street, the business of small shops is booming, businessmen make money here, tourists have fun here, and those leisurely and lazy, happy and priceless times in the past have gradually become less.
It's not that commercialization is not good, after all, we are all just short-term passers-by, not the owners of Dali for a long time, for the locals to improve their living standards, the accelerated economic development is indeed beneficial, the collision of old and new cultures may have new sparks, and for passers-by, we may need more time to adapt.
If you yearn for the carefree and slow life of Dali and yearn for this ideal country, it is recommended to avoid holidays, come in the off-season, take a walk by Erhai Lake, walk through the mottled years of the ancient city, and see the deep starry sky of Dali , so that the trip is not in vain.
Dali is still the Dali , but in a different way.
The way of life of the new Dali people, all kinds of markets are the best embodiment, the bed sheet factory art area, the foreign street market, the four seasons market and other countless markets will be staged in turn every week, the most lively should be the foreign street market, because there are more mobile stalls, the two sides of the foreign street are full of all kinds of small goods, if you want to pursue an artistic market, the four seasons market or bed sheet factory will be more suitable.
When I was wandering around the ancient city on a small motorcycle, I passed by this strange building and took a closer look, it turned out to be Yang Liping Grand Theater.
We didn't take the classic Erhai Lake line, but drove a small motorcycle to Erhai Lake to take a look, and before leaving, we wanted to stay in the seaside B&B of Shuanglang . Dissuaded by the doubling holiday price, the holiday travel experience will always be discounted, which can be regarded as a fierce experience in Dali, Yunnan.
Putting aside the cloak of holidays, Dali on weekdays should still be the dream country, and the real hope is like this. After all, we have encountered a double rainbow!
In the ancient city of Dali , it is recommended to have a delicious special Dai hand pilaf [Gu style stewed private dish]
The food is not afraid of deep alleys, the store is not big but often overcrowded, Gu's hand pilaf is full of color and aroma, the portion is large and the taste is authentic, the boss will recommend the appropriate amount according to the number of diners, in addition to the hand pilaf, you can also try their bun roast chicken tendons, so delicious and chewy, full praise!
Address: No. 383, Qingshi Bridge, lower section of Yu'er Road, Dali (the door is relatively small, not easy to find)
Business hours: 11 :30--14:00 16:30--20:30
in Dali , We also went to a thousand-year-old village.
Fengyangyi Village has the only remaining section of the Yunnan-Tibet Tea and Horse Ancient Road in Dali , from the head of the village to the end of the village, nearly a kilometer of smooth stone road polished by horseshoes and human feet, occasionally villagers pull a few horses at the head of the village shouting a horseback riding trip, in fact, walking is a better way.
The stone pavement is lined with dilapidated old houses, the walls have faded and fallen, and the red bricks are exposed.
I met a group of old ladies, wearing straw hats under the dilapidated eaves with different expressions, or chatting left and right, or immersed in work, or closing their eyes to recuperate, This is the most beautiful scene I think.
The main road of the entire Fengyangyi Village is actually not long, and those dilapidated stone houses may not know one day they will be repaired or rebuilt, the story of the past and the wind and rain, I hope it will stay for a long time.
and I can't help but talk about the thunder I stepped on in Dali .
Almost everyone whoflips through the Dali TO DO LIST will see one: Go to Jizhao Monastery to have a vegetarian meal.
So with the beautiful idea of being able to feel the tranquility of the temple, we went to this niche attraction "Jizhao An", thinking that we would arrive at noon just in time to have a vegetarian meal, and we didn't rush too early.The steep mountain road was out of breath for about half an hour, and when I reached the door of Jizhao Monastery, it was half past 12, but I was dumbfounded by the flow of people in Jizhao Monastery. This so-called niche attraction has become a check-in flowing attraction.
From the door to the inner courtyard, every corner is full of people, there is a subtle sense of a large canteen, when we go to ask the people in the temple where to eat, we are told that lunch is gone and can only wait until dinner time, the mood is like five thunderstorms. The staff also told us that many people came up early in the morning to queue up, and some of them came up first to help a group of people buy, so they would sell out very early.
The state of eating vegetarian food I wanted was not like this, and the imaginary Jizhao An was not meant to leave the temple for such a deliberate visit for a vegetarian meal.
Fortunately, when the very hungry cook went down the mountain with irritability, he saw the sign of the Gantong Temple halfway up the mountain with the sign of vegetarian rice, it was past 1 o'clock at noon, and he went around to ask, but he didn't expect that there was a simple fasting room at the back door of the sparsely populated Gantong Temple, and a few tables were sitting with sporadic guests, I thought, these may be the guests who came down from the Jizhao Monastery.
Although there are not many dishes left, there are also my favorite fried tofu, fried cabbage, potato slices, the moment I hold a bowl of hot rice in my hand is grateful, silently not a grain of rice left, after eating, I looked up and saw the words posted in the fasting room, thinking "Shanzai, Amitabha", fortunately I met Gantong Temple, this vegetarian meal trip perfectly made up for the bad mood in Jizhao Monastery.
Slowly appreciate the Gantong Temple, in fact, there is a unique beauty, he is not a carefully arranged beauty, but a little vicissitudes, a little shabby, but full of life. Pear trees and persimmon trees are full of fruit, cobwebs of fallen ash hanging from the tiles, and succulents on the ground.
A little suggestion for friends who want to go to Jizhao Monastery:
1. Avoid the peak tourist season during holidays, avoid the first and fifteenth days of each month (the first and fifteenth days of the new year are free, and there will be more people)
2. Go up the mountain a little early, it takes half an hour to walk from the Gantong Ropeway to Jizhao Monastery, and it is best to arrive before 11 o'clock to ensure a bowl of hot rice.
3. If you really haven't eaten Jizhao Monastery, go to Gantong Temple, the vegetarian food of Gantong Temple can also warm your stomach.
Xizhou Town is actually not a niche place, and there are not a few tourists who come here during holidays.
In my opinion, Xizhou is more emotional than Dali , perhaps it is those Bai houses hidden deep in the ancient city, maybe it is those old walls and deep alleys that wind and cannot find an end, or it may be a rice field that makes people feel happy.
As an important town and transit post station on the ancient tea horse road, Xizhou became the center of trade, rest, rest and supply of merchants and travelers in the past. With a history of more than 1,000 years, leaving behind cornices, ancient houses, and bluestone bridges, full of aura, Xizhou Ancient Town still uses its streets and alleys to tell these vivid stories.
Xizhou's landmark rounded corner building, is also the hottest Internet celebrity photo spot, this intersection is bustling on holidays, and there will be fewer people only during staggered peak hours.
Sifang Street is Xizhou's "Little Hong Kong ", and on the high "Inscription Square", the "Four Great Masters", "Eight Middle Families" and "Twelve Small Families" of the Xizhou Business Gang silently tell the glory of the past. The entrance of the Yan family compound is also in the square, and now it has become the center of food, surrounded by fragrant Xizhou baba, milky roasted milk fan, steaming casserole rice noodles... There are a lot of special delicacies hidden.
A rice field next to the ancient town is the most attractive scene in Xizhou today, and a Bai residential museum "Xilinyuan" is next to the rice field. The orange wall and rice field are never tired of watching, and it has also become a check-in point for many people, and it is also recommended to come to the peak to feel better.
There are rows of coffee shops on the edge of the rice fields, and it is indeed a leisurely treat to have a cup of coffee facing the fields on a sunny morning or afternoon.
The golden time of the rice fields is about September and October.
Xizhou Ancient Town has gradually been crowned with the label of "Internet celebrity", maybe because of the rice fields, maybe because of more and more coffee shops, food shops, handicraft shops, now looking back, when walking in the ancient town, I was also lost in the busyness of looking for photo spots, and ignored the soul of Dali represented by Xizhou, its thousand-year history, its prosperous old dreams, its cultural and architectural heritage...... After coming back, I turned over these inner souls one by one, and I was really ashamed to be sighed by the years.
Fora few days in Dali, I lived in a homestay in Shacun next to Xizhou Ancient Town, which was a little far from the ancient town, but I gained peace.
The room has a large terrace facing the landscape painting in the distance, and I was amazed by this poetry when I woke up in the morning.
The B&B is called Qingsha Minju, many details in the room are designed by the landlord, and it is recommended to stay here if you like quiet and quality.
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Recommend two Xizhou Coffee shop
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1. Pessoa Pastoral Cafe
faces a Xizhou rice field, decorated with flowers and plants in front of the door, Pessoa Cafe is on the edge of Xizhou Ancient Town, and it is also a well-known café in Dali , with good production and good environment. Especially sitting on a chair in front of the door looking at the field scenery in front of you, it is suitable for emptying your thoughts.
"Pessoa" is a Portuguese writer, perhaps because of his yearning for the sunshine and the sense of fit between life, which made the manager come up with such a name. The coffee is roasted by the owner himself, and the coffee aroma brought by the fresh, medium and light roasted beans can make people feel extremely happy.
Freshly roasted milk tea has no additives, plus cinnamon stirs to give off a unique aroma, which is my favorite taste.
The enamel cup for pour-over coffee is a customized illustration in collaboration with the designer, and the painting is right at the door of this café, which is very beautiful, and I even bought one to take home.
2. Tian Coffee
Thesimplicity of Tian Coffee makes people walk by without recognizing that this is a coffee shop.
Tiled up, old-fashioned planks have been sanded to a smooth countertop, simple coffee making utensils, Kinu hand grinder, copper pot and filter cup from Kalita, It formed the bar. The Japanese handmade pottery cups on the wall are displayed in one word, which shows the owner's unique love for utensils.
The boss was roasting beans upstairs, and after a while he had leisure to brew coffee, using a more Japanese brewing technique, focusing as if there was only coffee and himself at that moment, a clean and thorough pot of iron pickup truck , just like its name "Qingyi", it was the feeling of Yunnan .
Yes, this is a home-baked pour-over specialty store, and it's worth splurging on a pot of pour-over.
last day of the return trip via Kunming , I didn't visit too many attractions, the most impressive thing was the two markets I went to during the day and at night, which are blessed places that people who like food must not miss, and now I think about it, I just hate that I didn't stay for more time to feel it.
[Nanqiang Street and Alley] - "The night on Nanqiang Street is a bowl of fireworks in the world as you like." "
Nanqiang Street and Alley is a must-visit and most popular neighborhood in Kunming for night tours, and I only have the most straightforward description of it" A market that has a lot of people but can't be hated at all."
It gathers special snacks from Kunming , Yunnan , the whole country and even the world, and the bustling food street is mixed with the sound of ordering, the sizzling of food, and the sound of clinking glasses...... Moving slowly in the crowd, poking your head and brain, looking at the variety of food menus, the fireworks here are too willful, and everyone who comes will unconsciously integrate into the hustle and bustle.
I put away my camera while eating and packing food, and I really feel guilty for not taking too many photos of food, I hope you can feel my sincerity to food~~
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[Daguan Seal New Farmer's Market] - "The simple but glowing, simple but comforting soul of the old Kunming"
>In Kunming's Zhuanxin Farmer's Market, local friends will go by themselves or bring friends from other places; It's not enough to bring 50 yuan, and 100 yuan may not be enough, because there are so many delicious foods! It is not just as simple as a vegetable and fish market, there are all kinds of bread and bread, all kinds of things I have never seen in my life, all kinds of food that refresh my taste buds, all in all, the new market has a mysterious beauty. 
Even Chen Xiaoqing, the director of "China on the Tip of the Tongue", was full of praise for it and directly appeared in Amway in the show. Zhuanxin Market is a good place that can sweep all the Yunnan food in a short period of time , no matter how short the time is, you have to go to Zhuanxin Market first when you come to Kunming, so that you can be called an authentic foodie.
Fruits, vegetables, cooked foods, meats, seafood, fungi, flowers, spices... It is neatly arranged and pleasing to the eye.
You can eat a full round while buying groceries, which is really envious of Kunming people. If so, I'm willing to come to buy groceries every day!
There are so many types of vegetables that I can't name them, but they look surprisingly healing.
The tofu pudding rice noodles of the spicy snack are simply delicious in the world, and the tofu pudding that glides through the mouth is paired with the spicy rice noodles, which is really delicious! The front of the store is surrounded by water, full of diners who come to order or take away.
Zhuanxin Farmers' Market has endless shouting and endless food, so that you can feel the most down-to-earth temperature of a city, even if it is crowded and difficult to walk, But you can immerse yourself in it without feeling bored at all.
A vegetable street (gai), full of the gentle smell of fireworks in the world of old Kunming, the four seasons change, the seasons change, the story here has never stopped, this real and ordinary appearance is the original taste of life.
until the next good season, let's travel again.
After seeing mountains, rivers, lakes and seas, walking through spring, summer, autumn and winter,
I found that every moment of every day, there are thousands of life,
and thousandsof people are moving forward on different life trajectories.
——To the ordinary and real us
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