Live Your Best Lives
Before leaving for Lijiang, I did some research, checking the Yunnan Centers for Disease Control, and finalizing my preferred route, hotel, and transportation options.
Luckily, I didn't agree to Mr. Cong's plan to rent a car and drive myself. The road from Shangri-La to Pudacuo is under construction (supposedly a few years ago), making it quite difficult to navigate (if renting a car, I recommend getting a higher-rider). The road from Lijiang to Lugu Lake is also quite winding. By comparison, renting a car is much more comfortable, and gives you more freedom to explore. (If you prefer a shared ride, you can find one in Lijiang; traveling without a plan is also quite liberating.) To maximize the scenery in my limited time, I found a guide (Wang Pingrong's team) on China-TravelNote in advance. Her route essentially covered all the must-see attractions. The tourism industry has been bleak during the pandemic. A five-day charter was only 2,500 yuan, with no tolls or fuel costs. The driver provided their own accommodations, and they even arranged free airport transfers (I was pleasantly surprised to see an Audi A6 picking me up at the train station). The driver and guide were both Naxi, speaking fluent Mandarin. Along the way, they explained Lijiang's customs and culture, and took me to eat the local delicacies I wanted to experience. Shangri-La Tibetan cuisine, Lugu Lake stone pot fish, and Lijiang's mushroom hotpot were all excellent. Five-star reviews are essential for the chartered car and guide.
Route:
D0 Arrive in Lijiang and stay in Shuhe Ancient Town.
D1 Lashi Lake - Baisha Ancient Town - Shuhe Ancient Town (I used Didi for this day), staying at the Yunjian Resort Hotel next to Shuhe Ancient Town.
D2 Depart for Shangri-La, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Napa Lake, and Songzanlin Temple, and stay at Ganlu Inn in Dukezong Ancient Town (chartered car tours begin this day).
D3 Pudacuo Park, return to Lijiang, and stay at Fuyi Baika B&B in Shuhe Ancient Town.
D4 Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Impression Lijiang, and stay at Fuyi Baika B&B in Shuhe Ancient Town.
D5 Lugu Lake, stay at Shilili in Daluoshui Village.
D6 Return to Lijiang, explore Lijiang Old Town, and stay at Lifetime One Night in Lijiang Old Town.
D7 Lion Rock, Mu Mansion, and return to Kunming. Now let's begin our Lijiang travel diary~~
D1 Lashihai
My Lashihai experience wasn't great. Didi driver #1 didn't follow my directions. I originally wanted to go to West Lake (I saw some people on VW DP do that, and the scenery was beautiful). Instead, driver #1 dropped me off at a travel agency near Lashihai, trying to trick me into riding a horse. While they also sell entrance tickets plus/minus bus tickets, the agency entrance is quite far from the scenic area, so I still had to buy a bus ticket. After buying the tickets and entering the scenic area, I discovered there wasn't much real scenery inside. The better views were all taken up by popular photo spots. The weather wasn't cold yet, and wintering birds hadn't arrived yet, so a few resident mallards could be seen on the water. Part of the scenic area was still under construction, so I just walked along the boardwalk. The sky was beautiful, and the mountains were visible in the distance, making for beautiful photos. After exiting Lashi Lake, I took a Didi taxi to Baisha Ancient Town. Along the way, I saw locals planting fields of sunflowers in their yards and apple and snow peach trees in their fields, which brightened my mood. Yunnan has a rich variety of fruit, and there's practically more local fruit than I can eat. The apples from Lugu Lake in Lijiang, the bananas, dragon fruit, and pomegranates from Honghe Prefecture are all absolutely delicious and affordable. 
Lashi Lake The Lashi Lake scenic area is similar to a wetland park, with walking trails circling the lake and wetlands. The seabirds hadn't arrived when we went, so the lifelike birds in the picture are fake. 
Lashi Lake Every day in Lijiang is filled with blue skies and white clouds, a truly refreshing experience. Although September is still the rainy season, it's drawing to a close.
First, in Baisha Ancient Town, we had a mixed pot dish recommended by Didi driver No. 2, a Shandong native who pursues a free-spirited lifestyle. It's a delicacy that locals all eat. Even though I don't like greasy pig's trotters, I actually enjoyed it. The broth was delicious, the pig's trotters were plump but not greasy, and the bottom was filled with a variety of vegetables soaked up the broth. It was the epitome of deliciousness and health, haha. A small portion was only 68 yuan, enough for two people with rice.
Baisha Ancient Town Naxi pork trotter hot pot, small portion. After dinner, I wandered around Baisha. It was really peaceful. I ran into a few tourists and saw a few shops open. The townspeople went about their daily lives. Any photo taken on the street had the snow-capped mountains as a backdrop.
Baisha Ancient Town The Baisha Ancient Town sign, which many tourists take photos of, is actually located at the intersection of the town's main thoroughfare, with traffic flowing through. Before arriving in Lijiang, I made a list of cafes, eliminating those that focused on ambiance or those whose recommended lists were all about desserts. My first choice was MAO Coffee. The owner's surname was probably Mao, and there were pictures of cats in the shop. The menu was very professionally organized, with a long list of both espresso and pour-over coffees. The owner was unsociable, and there was a notice in the shop prohibiting photos, so I obediently drank my coffee. I chose a latte, a Yunnan Pu'er pour-over coffee made with sun-dried beans (I usually choose these two when I first check in at a coffee shop, as they can tell the difference between the Italian espresso technique and the quality of the pour-over beans). The Pu'er beans are indeed richer and more robust than the Baoshan beans. Compared to several coffee shops I visited later in Lijiang, MAO Coffee's bean quality, pour-over flavor, and latte art were all tops. 
Baisha Ancient Town MAO Coffee's hours are a bit capricious, only opening in the afternoons. The China-TravelNote guide image settings are strange; some photos are mis-oriented no matter how I adjust them. 
Baisha Ancient Town One of the few shops still open in Baisha Ancient Town.
After leaving Baisha, I headed straight to Shuhe Ancient Town. Its size and liveliness are somewhere between Baisha and Lijiang Ancient Town. Shuhe is significantly larger than Baisha and has a bit more visitors.
Shuhe Ancient Town The post office in the ancient town sells various souvenirs, and the horses standing at the door are so quiet. 
Shuhe Ancient Town A bar across from Sifang Tingyin Square has a resident singer who sings beautifully in the afternoon. The bar street has already started singing in the afternoon. Mr. Cong declined the travel photoshoot due to being "shy," so we found a leather goods shop (Manwu) to make a souvenir. We made a clay cat fridge magnet for our home-guarding cat, Qiuqiu, and a leather bell (even without the bell, Qiuqiu still refuses to wear it around his neck, being all irritable, so I decided to hang it on my laptop bag). The couple who own Manwu are from Zhejiang and chose to live in Lijiang after escaping the hustle and bustle of the city. The owner, Xiaoyu, is very outgoing and added me on WeChat to recommend some delicious fire pits and coffee shops. For dinner, we went to the restaurant Xiaoyu recommended (Lishuihui Original Ecological Restaurant), which is within walking distance of my Yunjian residence.
Shuhe Ancient Town Leather goods, refrigerator magnets, and small bells are all very easy to get started with, and can be made in an hour. Bags and other items will take a little longer. The hotels and restaurants on this trip will be featured in a separate article.
Due to Day 2, we checked out of Yunjian and headed for Shangri-La. After entering the Tibetan area, we gradually saw white pagodas, herds of cattle and sheep, and the magnificent homes of Tibetans.
We first visited Tiger Leaping Gorge, where the rapids were truly breathtaking. A walking path leads to the viewing platform, and those with mobility issues can also take the elevator. I wanted to upload a video, but the format isn't compatible. I'll look into it later...
The weather was nice this afternoon, so I went horseback riding at Napahai. Yes, I wanted to ride horses today. Before I saw Napahai, I thought it was a lake, similar to Erhai Lake. Only when I got there did I realize it was actually a swampy meadow. Because of the heavy rains during the rainy season, there's water between the meadows, and the water reflects the blue sky and white clouds. This is a scenery you can only see during the rainy season. There are three horseback riding lengths, and I chose the shortest route (which seemed to be about an hour, including time for photos). When the horse stepped into the water, I was nervous. I was worried it was too deep and I didn't go in. I was also worried that the horse would get upset and throw me off. Haha. In the end, none of these worries came true. But when I got back, I found the skin on my tailbone was broken.
The final stop on Day 2 was Songzanlin Monastery. The Tibetan man there gave a fascinating and insightful explanation, completely different from the kind of memorized information you'd get for a tour guide certification exam. He detailed everything from the origins and development of Tibetan Buddhism, the history of Songzanlin Monastery, where to take panoramic photos of the temple, the birds circling above the temple, and even the ritual of sky burial. As a result, we stayed at Songzanlin Monastery a little longer than expected. Many people wore Tibetan clothing for their travel photos, and there were rentals available at the main entrance. After comparing them, I found the clothing at Dukezong Ancient Town to be more upscale.
We returned to Dukezong Ancient Town in Shangri-La that evening, just before Mid-Autumn Festival. We encountered the most welcoming guesthouse of our trip (Ganlu Inn), where all the guests were invited to the living room to watch TV, eat mooncakes, drink tea, and pet cats. It was a wonderful feeling to be able to connect with people from all over the world.
Dukezong Ancient Town Ganlu Inn's rooms offer a view of the Big Buddha Temple at night, and you can wake up to the sound of chanting in the morning. I had originally planned to check out and head directly to Pudacuo Park. Since I woke up to the chanting at the Big Buddha Temple, and since my B&B was very close, I went to Guishan Park to see the entire Dukezong Ancient Town and turn the largest prayer wheel. 
Dukezong Ancient Town Guishan Park is a great place to hike, burn incense, and pray. 
Dukezong Ancient Town Guishan Park has a large Buddha temple and the largest prayer wheel. During the Mid-Autumn Festival, many locals went to the temple to pray.
In September, Pudacuo hadn't yet entered autumn, so there wasn't any autumn color. Traveling is like that; you can't experience every postcard-worthy scene. Even so, Pudacuo remains breathtakingly beautiful. "Puda" in "Pudacuo" means "boat," and "cuo" means "lake." Tibetans live in the park, receiving salaries for their environmental protection and raising cattle, sheep, and horses. The lower elevations of Tibet's plateau are dotted with vibrant red wolfsbane flowers, and the plateau willows on the distant mountains are strikingly different from those found in the south. Little squirrels occasionally dart around your feet. Pudacuo is a perfect park for hiking. Upon entering the scenic area, you board a tour bus. Volunteers on board offer a tour of the park. Both Shudu Lake and Bita Lake are a 20-30 minute drive, and the hike to Shudu Lake takes about an hour and a half, though you can also walk if you have more time. Fortunately, Bita Lake, which had been closed for a long time, was partially open during our visit. 
The Shudu Lake hiking trail offers a view of the mirror-like water. 
Pudacuo Forest Park I was lucky enough to see Bita Lake. It's not fully open yet, and the grass is already slightly yellowing. It will be even more beautiful in autumn.
After returning from Shangri-La, I felt a little nostalgic. I think Yubeng should be even more beautiful. After a night of rest back in Lijiang, our D4 itinerary was Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Our previous guide had planned to visit Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on the last day, but I suggested we do it before Lugu Lake, worried we'd be too tired to make it. We had the driver book tickets through the company, and luckily, the Impression Lijiang show had just started, right after Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. My concerns about altitude sickness were completely overblown. Shangri-La is over 3,000 meters, while Lijiang is over 2,000 meters. I didn't feel any discomfort sleeping that night, and even showered when I needed to. Mr. Cong even had a few drinks in Shangri-La that evening, but he didn't feel any discomfort. We still bought oxygen before heading to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain; the mountain is expensive, so it's better to be prepared in advance. During the hike, I did see many women without makeup with purple lips, which was a bit shocking for some women. We didn't see any glaciers. The development of tourism has reduced the number of snow-capped mountains in Lijiang.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Cableway Sitting on the cableway, I startled myself, feeling like I was running out of air. I quickly mentally warned myself and took a breath of oxygen. 
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain The wind was strong during the climb, but I didn't feel very cold. The cotton jacket I rented was completely sufficient. The climb wasn't very strenuous, so we quickly descended the mountain and took the bus to Blue Moon Valley. I saw many couples taking wedding photos in Blue Moon Valley; best wishes to them. 
Blue Moon Valley 
Blue Moon Valley Baishuitai looks a bit like Pamukkale.
Our last stop at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was the Impression Lijiang show. It was said to be the first show to resume, which was quite a relief. Everyone was given a raincoat before the show started, but umbrellas are not recommended, as they can disturb others. It was raining quite heavily while I was watching, but my raincoat was great, so I didn't have to worry about getting wet. The driver explained that the actors in "Impression Lijiang" were all locals. With the snow-capped mountains as their backdrop, they introduced their names and ethnic groups, and performed scenes about horseback riding, drinking, labor, and marriage. Even in the rain, the actors were completely immersed in their performances, which was admirable. 
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain The ability to sing and dance is innate in ethnic minorities. The singers, in particular, have such naturally talented voices. 
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
D5 Lugu Lake: The drive from Lijiang to Lugu Lake takes about 4 hours. Once you enter the scenic area and purchase your ticket, you can admire the beauty of Lugu Lake from above. It's no exaggeration to say that it's breathtakingly beautiful.
Lugu Lake This photo was taken from the viewing platform after entering the scenic area. The tranquil waters are breathtakingly beautiful. First, we took a boat to Liwubi Island. To protect the environment, all boats are human-powered, each seating a maximum of 10-12 people. There are only two boatmen, usually a couple. My wife gave us a tour of Lugu Lake. The boat ticket to the island directly costs 70 yuan per person, and a circumnavigation is an additional 30 yuan. Since the lake is so beautiful and clear, of course we had to circle it and stay longer. There's a temple on the top of Liwubi Island.
We stayed in Daluoshui Village that night. The room rate was higher than in Lijiang, but the room was quite average. The bonfire party was canceled due to the epidemic prevention and control measures. We chose a coffee shop to enjoy the sunset. It had a first-line lake view, but the coffee was very ordinary. By comparison, I still prefer Lijiang and Shangri-La.
Lugu Lake The water lilies are beautiful. I also tried this dish in Lijiang. It has a smooth texture. 
Lugu Lake Staying in Daluoshui Village, you can enjoy both sunset and sunrise along the river. 
Lugu Lake Distant clouds and rain in the sunshine After returning from Lugu Lake, I've spent a full week exploring. I wasn't exhausted, and I still felt a sense of satisfaction. Returning to Lijiang Old Town marked the end of my trip. We chose the bustling Lijiang Old Town as our final destination, hoping to soak in the vibrant atmosphere before heading home. The old town is vast, and walking around it takes ages. So, we spent the evening exploring the waterwheel and enjoying a snack. The next morning, we headed to the Mu Mansion and Lion Mountain. They say Lion Mountain offers the best panoramic views of the old town, especially since it's free. This isn't true; Lion Mountain does charge an entrance fee, and the photo opportunities aren't as good as those at the Mu Mansion. While the entrance fee is also applicable, the Mu Mansion offers many areas to visit, free guided tours, and expansive views from its highest point. 
Lijiang Old Town We stayed in a guesthouse near the Mu Mansion, enjoying a tranquil retreat amidst the bustle. 
Mufu Palace Mufu Palace is worth a visit
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