May Day: Going to a Windy Place --- 2024 Beijing to Dali Travelogue

Number of days：5 days
Time: May
Average cost: 8,000 yuan
With whom：parents and children
Tour kinds：Free travel
Updated: 2024.05.21

With the May Day holiday, which was just a day off, I felt like I was failing the country's good intentions by not planning a trip. I was deeply moved by the scenery in the film "Where the Wind Goes," and I wanted to spend five days relaxing by the Cangshan and Erhai Lakes. So I booked my flights and hotel early, and early on May 1st (very early indeed), my family and I set off.

DAY01 May 1st Beijing - Dali

[Expert] Home - Capital Airport T2 Online taxi ￥110

Air China CA1441 06:25-10:25 Adult 2730 yuan/person Child 1340 yuan/person Total 6800 yuan

Dali Airport - Shuanglang Ancient Town (North Entrance) Online taxi ￥100

Shuanglang Ancient Town - Fengqing Island Ferry Round Trip Adult 70 yuan/person Child 35 yuan/person Total 175 yuan

[Tour] Shuanglang Ancient Town, Fengqing Island

Shuanglang Ancient Town: Located northeast of Dali City, approximately 20 kilometers from Dali Ancient Town, Shuanglang Ancient Town dates back to the Tang Dynasty and boasts a rich history and culture. The town boasts well-preserved ancient buildings, such as Yuji Island and Jinbang Temple, which are worth a visit. Here, you can experience a rich historical and cultural atmosphere and appreciate the charm of Bai culture. Nestled between mountains and water, Shuanglang Ancient Town boasts unique natural scenery. Erhai Lake, Cangshan Mountain, and Yuji Island are all surrounding it, creating a unique landscape painting. This is why it is often said that "Dali's scenery lies in Cangshan and Erhai Lake, and Cangshan and Erhai Lake's scenery lies in Shuanglang."

Dali Nanzhao Custom Island: One of the three Erhai Lake islands, it is located in Shuanglang Township, southeastern Eryuan County, in a prime location within the Cang'er National Scenic Area. Surrounded by water, the island is bordered by the renowned Buddhist sanctuary Jizu Mountain to the east, Shibao Mountain to the north, Dali to the south, and Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake to the west, boasting exceptional tourism resources.

[Meals] Breakfast: In-flight meal; Lunch: Shuanglang Fisherman's Courtyard Farmhouse Cuisine, 146 RMB; Dinner: Complimentary afternoon tea and roast chicken platter, 60 RMB at Ningfu Ocean Homestay.

[Accommodation] Dali Ningfu Ocean Homestay, two-bedroom suite, 1752 RMB/night.

[Review] There are only four direct flights from Beijing to Dali, two of which depart from Daxing Airport. To avoid wasting the day, the best option was the 6:00 PM flight, which meant catching up on sleep on the plane.

The homestay I booked through China-TravelNote had high reviews. It had a waterfront cafe, a private waterfront, and a rooftop with a stunning view and a small swimming pool. It was practically possible to take a photoshoot without leaving the house. Guests staying here receive a complimentary travel photography service, including five negatives. I booked the room in early March, and the price had already increased significantly during the May Day holiday, almost doubling. After searching for Dali travel guides on an app, I was recommended to a shop selling sightseeing buses around Erhai Lake. I also learned about the three-day free pass. On arrival, I purchased the "activate the next day" three-day pass for 118 yuan per person. I used it over the next few days and found it very convenient. Shuanglang Ancient Town is closed to vehicles from outside, so ride-hailing taxis must stop at the entrance. The B&B host met us at the entrance. The B&B was very close to the north entrance, diagonally across from the sightseeing bus station. Shuanglang Ancient Town has only one main street, so it didn't take long to wander from north to south. After settling our luggage, we walked from the B&B to the pier, stopping at a restaurant recommended by the host for lunch. The exhibition in front of the palace on Fengqing Island is worth a look. The silverware identification area and the jade, jadeite, gold, and silver jewelry sales hall at the back are just the usual suspects. Fortunately, there was no forced purchase.

DAY02 May 2nd Dali

[Travel] Shuanglang Ancient Town (North Entrance) - Dali Ancient Town (South Gate) Online Taxi ￥131

Dali Ancient Town Sightseeing Bus Free Pass

Dali Ancient Town (South Gate) - Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas Scenic Area Round Trip Sightseeing Bus Free Pass

Dali Ancient Town - Shuanglang Ancient Town Sightseeing Bus Free Pass

[Tour] Dali Ancient Town, Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas Scenic Area (Tickets: Adult 73 Yuan/person; Child 37 Yuan/person)

Dali Ancient City: Bordered by the shimmering Erhai Lake to the east and the evergreen Cangshan Mountain to the west, the ancient city forms a striking urban layout characterized by the saying, "Water surrounds Cangshan, Cangshan embraces the ancient city." Since the Nanzhao King Yimouxun relocated his capital to Yangzhumie City in 779, the city boasts a 1,200-year history. The existing Dali Ancient City, restored in the early Ming Dynasty, is based on the original Yangzhumie City. It boasts a square shape, four gates, a tower above, a citadel below, and three streams running north and south as natural barriers. The outer wall is made of brick. Five main streets run north-south, and eight lanes and alleys run west-to-east, creating a checkerboard-like layout. The city's roads retain the checkerboard-like grid structure of the Ming and Qing dynasties, earning it the nickname "Nine Streets and Eighteen Alleys." The two towers facing north and south have been restored. A single main street runs through the city from south to north, while deep, secluded alleys crisscross from west to east. The city's uniformly tiled roofs and cobblestone walls reflect Dali's quaint, unique, and elegant character. The Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas Scenic Area, covering 1,000 mu (approximately 1,000 acres), is divided into two main areas. The front area, centered around the three pagodas, features attractions including the three pagodas, the Nanzhao Jianji Bell, and the Yutong Guanyin Hall. The back area encompasses Chongsheng Temple, renowned as the premier temple of Chinese Buddhism. The majestic Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple feature the Qianxun Pagoda, the central tower. Standing 69.13 meters tall, it was built during the Nanzhao Kingdom period of the Tang Dynasty (833-840 AD). It is a square, dense-eaves, hollow brick tower with 16 steps, ascended by a spiraling wooden staircase. The tower's spindle-shaped structure, with sleek lines, exemplifies the architectural style of the Tang Dynasty. The two small pagodas, standing north and south, have a conical outline, a typical Song Dynasty architectural style. They were built during the reigns of Duan Zhengyan and Duan Zhengxing of the Dali Kingdom (1108-1172 AD). The two small pagodas are 97 meters apart, each standing 42.19 meters tall. They are octagonal, pavilion-style, 10-story brick pagodas. Each level features brackets, platform, and niches of varying shapes, mimicking wooden structures. The pagodas are decorated with relief carvings of Buddha statues, lotus flowers, vases, and other figures, each tiered in a unique pattern. Each small pagoda is 70 meters from the main pagoda, forming an isosceles triangle. Chongsheng Temple was first built during the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty and expanded through successive generations, reaching its peak during the Dali Kingdom of the Song Dynasty. Historical records indicate that at its peak, Chongsheng Temple "surrounded a site of seven li square, housed 890 rooms, held 11,400 Buddha statues, and used 45,500 hu of copper. It boasted three pavilions, seven towers, nine halls, and hundreds of mansions," demonstrating its grandeur. Because Buddhism flourished during the Dali Kingdom, it was also known as the "Land of Wonderful Fragrance." Nine of the kingdom's 22 kings ordained monks at Chongsheng Temple. At the time, Chongsheng Temple was the center of Buddhist culture for the entire Dali Kingdom, and indeed for Southeast Asia, earning it the nickname "The Capital of Buddhism."

[Food] Breakfast: B&B breakfast; Lunch: Mengziyuan Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles, 118 yuan; Dinner: Dicos and Bawang Tea House, 160 yuan

[Accommodation] Dali Ningfu Haisu Two-Bedroom Junior Suite, 1752 yuan/night

[Review] Both the east and west routes of the sightseeing bus depart from Dali Ancient Town in the morning. This means the first east-west buses depart from Shuanglang Ancient Town Station at 11:00 and 11:30 am, respectively. Therefore, these departures are usually handled by ride-hailing services. It would be more convenient if the sightseeing bus had separate departure points for both the east and west routes in the future.

It was overcast and drizzling today, and Dali Ancient Town was packed with tourists, leaving the main streets and alleys extremely congested. Fortunately, we took a sightseeing bus tour first, giving us a good overview of the main attractions. Dali Ancient Town has become quite commercialized, which was a bit disappointing, and I probably won't be back. I imagine the scene will be completely different after dark, when the taverns open their doors, but since we weren't staying here, we wouldn't be able to experience that.

It was drizzling in the afternoon, but Chongsheng Temple was surprisingly less crowded. The red walls, yellow tiles, and ancient Buddha statues, nestled in the drizzle, felt incredibly solemn and sacred.

Due to traffic, the return trip from Dali Ancient Town to Shuanglang Ancient Town took three hours. However, from the Shanhai Bay Hotel onwards, the road was all along the sea, offering sweeping views of Santorini Utopia, Luoquan Peninsula, and Wenbi Village. It was relaxing, and the traffic didn't seem too unbearable.

DAY03 May 3rd Dali

[Travel] Shuanglang Ancient Town (North Entrance) - Xizhou Ancient Town Online Ride-hailing ￥71

Xizhou Ancient Town - Butterfly Spring Sightseeing Bus Pass

Butterfly Spring - Shuanglang Ancient Town Sightseeing Bus Pass

[Visit] Xizhou Ancient Town, Butterfly Spring Scenic Area (Admission: Adult 38 Yuan/person; Child 20 Yuan/person)

Xizhou Ancient Town: An ancient town with a long history and profound cultural heritage under the jurisdiction of Dali City. It enjoys a prime geographical location, bordering Erhai Lake to the east and Cangshan Mountain to the west. Xizhou Ancient Town, known as "Dali City" during the Sui and Tang dynasties, was one of the "Ten Eyes" of the Nanzhao period and a significant town for the Bai ethnic group. Xizhou Ancient Town boasts over 15,000 distinctive Bai residential buildings from the Ming and Qing dynasties, as well as from the Republic of China onwards. This rich heritage has earned it the nickname "The Museum of Bai Residential Architecture." These hundreds of Bai residential buildings, with their simple elegance and exquisite architectural artistry, stand out among the world's architectural landscapes, making a significant contribution to Chinese architectural history. In June 2001, the Xizhou Bai Ancient Buildings Complex was designated by the State Council as a fifth-batch National Key Cultural Relics Protection Site. Butterfly Spring Scenic Area: Butterfly Spring Park is located west of National Highway 214 in Dali, at the foot of Yunnong Peak, one of the 19th peaks of Cangshan Mountain in the Hengduan Mountains, nestled between Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake. Butterfly Spring Park showcases its three unique attractions: butterflies, springs, and trees. Key attractions include Butterfly Spring, the Dressing Pool, the Five Dragons Pool, the Duet Pond, Lover's Lake, the Butterfly Museum, the Butterfly World, the Xu Xiake sculpture, the Seaview Pavilion, the Spring Viewing Pavilion, and the stone memorial archway. Within the scenic area, refreshing springs blend harmoniously with the butterfly springs, shaded by lush trees and vibrant flowers. Here, gurgling springs, towering ancient trees, fragrant flowers, and fluttering butterflies fill the air with refreshing freshness. Escape the hustle and bustle of the world and fully experience the purity, loftiness, and tranquility of nature. This is a place where humans and nature coexist in harmony, steeped in the rich cultural heritage of butterflies, springs, trees, and ethnic groups.

[Food] Breakfast: Breakfast at the B&B; Lunch: Suxiangyuan Baba, Coated Tofu, Yinmi Rice Noodles, and Bawang Chaji (300 RMB); Dinner: Complimentary Afternoon Tea at Ningfu Ocean Resort + Corner Food Delivery (120 RMB)

[Accommodation] Dali Ningfu Ocean Resort Two-Bedroom Junior Suite (1752 RMB/night)

[Review] Xizhou Ancient Town is slightly better than Dali Ancient Town, with some quaint houses. The Yan Family Courtyard is a classic example of Bai architecture and well worth a visit. There were also many tourists today. Don't take photos of the wind-blown wheat fields at the entrance of the village; make sure to walk back past the train tracks, where the crowds thin out. Sit on the second floor of a popular coffee shop, and take in the distant mountains, the nearby wheat fields, and the gentle breeze – a truly relaxing experience. For those who haven't seen "Five Golden Flowers," the Butterfly Spring scenic area isn't worth the time. At my age, I'm just checking in, reminiscing about the films I watched on black-and-white TV as a child. The itinerary was pretty relaxed for the next few days. Aside from being stuck in traffic on May 2nd, I spent the rest of the day relaxing in the B&B's Linshui Café and on the rooftop booths, enjoying afternoon tea and admiring the sunset. The orange-red sunset glow contrasted with the fading blue sky, like a magnificent painting unfolding before my eyes, sweeping away my fatigue.

DAY04 May 4th Dali

[Travel] Shuanglang Ancient Town (North Entrance) - Wenbi Village Online Taxi ￥64

Wenbi Village - Xiao Putuo Tourist Bus Free Pass

Xiao Putuo - Shuanglang Ancient Town Tourist Bus Free Pass

[Visit] Wenbi Village, Xiao Putuo

Wenbi Village: Located on Huanhai East Road in Haidong Town, Wenbi Village is a tranquil little village on the shores of Erhai Lake. The village is nestled mid-mountain, and from the top, one can overlook Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake. It's generally sparsely visited, save for wedding photographers, making it exceptionally peaceful and tranquil. "Sky City: Fruit Trees," "Huazui Art Space," and "Haizhi Auditorium" are all popular, entrance-priced spots. It's recommended to bring a skirt for photos. Xiao Putuo: Located about 20 meters from the shoreline of Erhai Lake, it's a small island. Originally built in the Ming Dynasty and renovated in 1982, it features a two-story pavilion-style structure. The first floor houses the Tathagata Bodhisattva, and the second floor houses Guanyin Bodhisattva. Its shape resembles a round seal, hence its nickname, "Haiyin." The best time to visit Xiao Putuo is early morning, when mist curls over the sea, creating one of the eight scenic spots of Erhai Lake: "Misty Putuo."

[Food] Breakfast: B&B breakfast; Lunch: Qishan Traditional Yunnan Rice Noodles, 160 RMB; Dinner: Complimentary afternoon tea at Ningfu Ocean B&B + takeout from Corner Food Light, 60 RMB

[Accommodation] Dali Ningfu Ocean B&B Two-Bedroom Junior Suite, 1752 RMB/night

[Review] Rainbow Road in Wenbi Village is indeed a great filming location, but I didn't bring any equipment for this trip, so I could only snap a few photos with my phone. Also, a word of caution: influencer photo studios charge per person.

The Xiaoputuo stop took only half an hour, and waiting for the bus at the roadside cafe took another half an hour. Fortunately, the view from the cafe's second-floor terrace was great, and the owner was chatty. After learning that family-run B&Bs like his were also priced at 1,000 RMB per night during the May Day holiday, Ningfu Ocean B&B suddenly felt affordable.

DAY05 May 5th Dali - Beijing

[Travel] Shuanglang Ancient Town (North Entrance) - Dali Airport online taxi ￥114

Air China CA1500 09:30-13:25 Adult 2730 Yuan/person Child 1340 Yuan/person Total 6800 Yuan

Home - Capital Airport T2 Taxi ￥96 Yuan

[Food] Breakfast: B&B breakfast pack; Lunch: Airplane meal

[Comment] I had communicated with the housekeeper before that I would leave early on the last day, so the breakfast pack was delivered in advance the night before, and it was quite hearty.

This five-day trip cost around 23,000 yuan, primarily for airfare and accommodation. We didn't plan to visit many attractions, but instead visited Shuanglang Ancient Town, Dali Ancient City, the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple, Xizhou Ancient Town, Butterfly Spring, Wenbi Village, and Xiao Putuo Temple near Erhai Lake. We didn't bring any photography equipment and forgo the complimentary travel photography service. With two small suitcases and a backpack, our family of three slept in naturally each day. We spent most afternoons in cafes or on terraces, enjoying the sunset, relaxing, savoring the quiet, and savoring the beauty of life.

Perhaps this is how life should be.